If your car has received dents, dings, or creases as the result of a fender bender, shopping cart collision, or hail damage, paintless dent repair, also known as PDR, is typically the best solution for the repair of the damage. Not only does paintless dent repair restore your vehicle to its original state, it does so affordably and quickly. Paintless dent repair is cheaper than than most work performed at a body shop, and can often be done while you wait. Additionally, paintless dent repair is approved by most insurance companies for reimbursement.Paintless dent repair does not require sanding, bonding, filling, or paint. Instead, it relies on the use of special tools which take advantage of the fact that most auto bodies are made of metals which have “memory”. The memory of a metal is its tendency to seek out the original shape or curvature it originally had when it was manufactured. The use of high strength metal in manufacturing as well as resilient paint finishes contributes to the effectiveness and simplicity of the PDR process.Paintless dent repair is suitable for most vehicles manufactured after 1990 and works well for large or small dents so long as the surface of the paint has not been cracked. As paintless dent repair takes advantage of your car’s original finish, there are no issues with respect to matching of paint, and your vehicle is restored to its original condition.While most dents can be fixed in a short time “while you wait” (and some PDR companies even offer mobile service in which they come to your location), more extensive damage, such as hail damage, which involves numerous dents can take more time. Even so, the PDR process is still typically quicker and cheaper than more traditional, body shop repair processes would be.If your car has received dents, dings, or creases as the result of a fender bender, shopping cart collision, or hail damage, paintless dent repair, also known as PDR, is typically the best solution for the repair of the damage. Not only does paintless dent repair restore your vehicle to its original state, it does so affordably and quickly. Paintless dent repair is cheaper than than most work performed at a body shop, and can often be done while you wait. Additionally, paintless dent repair is approved by most insurance companies for reimbursement.Paintless dent repair does not require sanding, bonding, filling, or paint. Instead, it relies on the use of special tools which take advantage of the fact that most auto bodies are made of metals which have “memory”. The memory of a metal is its tendency to seek out the original shape or curvature it originally had when it was manufactured. The use of high strength metal in manufacturing as well as resilient paint finishes contributes to the effectiveness and simplicity of the PDR process.Paintless dent repair is suitable for most vehicles manufactured after 1990 and works well for large or small dents so long as the surface of the paint has not been cracked. As paintless dent repair takes advantage of your car’s original finish, there are no issues with respect to matching of paint, and your vehicle is restored to its original condition.While most dents can be fixed in a short time “while you wait” (and some PDR companies even offer mobile service in which they come to your location), more extensive damage, such as hail damage, which involves numerous dents can take more time. Even so, the PDR process is still typically quicker and cheaper than more traditional, body shop repair processes would be.Paintless dent repair has other advantages as well. Not only is it more affordable and quicker than traditional body shop work, it is environmentally friendly. No harmful paints, sprays or solvents are utilized. Paintless dent repair also preserves your car’s original finish, which helps maintain its value (cars which have their original finish on them resale for a greater amount than those with aftermarket finishes). Body shop work typically involves a depreciation of the value of a vehicle. This is simply not the case with paintless dent repair.Paintless dent repair provides a host of advantages over other means of automobile body repair. If your car has experienced dents, dings, or hail damage, it would be wise to investigate the options provided by PDR.

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After working in the automotive industry for the past 10 years, and been appointed the used car manager for the last 2. I have been asked these questions time and time again by customers, here are some of the most common scenarios when it comes to trade in evaluation. 1. Does a clean car affect my trade in value? No, people often think if their vehicle was clean it will get them a higher trade in value. Often enough it is the opposite effect due to several factors. 1. A clean vehicle will show more scratches, imperfections in the paint work, and any dents or body damages. It will almost certainly devalue your trade in amount rather than a increase. 2. Will my car be worth more if I fixed the repairs? No, mechanically if your vehicle needs work, by spending on the repair bill you are only bring your vehicle to a proper working condition. But it will not increase the value of your car in anyway. There is a difference between upgrading a vehicle versus repairing a vehicle. 3. What does a dealer base my trade in value on? There are several sources a dealer will use to determine the value of a vehicle. a) Canadian black book-It is for guidance purposes only, the book value will often give you a good indication of what your vehicle is worth on the whole sale market. But it is not the only tool in the dealer’s arsenal. b) Auction report-This report is printed on a weekly basis, in which it will list all the vehicles that has passed the local auction. Generally speaking auction report value is lower than Canadian black book value. c) Online research-By looking at web portals such as Auto Trader, Craigslist, or Kijiji, a dealer can determine a fair resell value on the vehicle. Therefore determine the trade in value. This article is provided to you by Auto Credit Financial.ca for more information please visits us online at http://www.autocreditfinancial.ca we specialize in bad credit car loans in Toronto, Whitby, Oshawa, Pickering and Ajax area.

Some of you may already be familiar with this distressing scenario: you walk out of the grocery store and into the parking lot. Then, you see a sight that you wished you hadn’t. There is a huge dent on the rear quarter panel of your car. You look for a note left by the person that committed the accident but there is none to be found. A hit and run has occurred and now you are stuck with the $500 deductible on your auto insurance. Or, are you? You could always invest in the option of a do-it-yourself auto body repair kit. Now, some may wonder if these kits actually work. The answer is they are actually very effective as a means of repairing an auto.

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If you are traveling in Utah and you find yourself in need of an auto body shop, you better hope that you are not in the desert on your way to Wendover. The state of Utah is sparsely populated and most of the population is concentrated on the Wasatch Front, so it is difficult to find quality service in the cities situated out from the mountains.

The most difficult repair in furniture restoration is touchups of damages in transparent finishes, especially on the top surfaces. It is called finish repair. It should be left to professionals. It is not a home remedy.
There are three levels of damage in finished woods: In the clear topcoat, In the coloring (stain, tinting toners, glaze, and/or shading stain), and In the underlying wood. Unfortunately, most damages are found in all three levels. And, since so many types of finishes are used today, it’s difficult to know exactly how the existing finish was started or completed.
When viewing repairs from different positions the lighting can cause refraction that distorts the repairs, making them appear obvious from one direction but not others. The type of lighting can make the restoration look unnoticeable from one position, while at another angle the repair is more visible. For that reason, transparent repairs should be done in the same position where the piece will remain. If the damage is on a vertical plane, repair it in that same place. If the damaged area is perpendicular, then do your work in that position. The goal when working on see-through repairs is that completed restorations always remain transparent as possible.
Several techniques are used for transparent repairs, but this article will concentrate on two of the most common methods. The first one is where an impact has depressed the finish and the wood. The second procedure involves the deeper types of damage, where portions of the actual wood were gouged out or torn on the furniture going below the surface finish and coloration.

Because all repairs in transparent finishes are tricky and problematic there is basically only one chance to do it right, so the repairer must observe both the damage and the type of finish being repaired. As with all repairs, start by de-waxing and cleaning both the damage and the entire surface to be worked on.
Repairs on “Dented” Wood In this type of damage the underlying wood has suffered an impact, putting a dent or depression in both the wood and finish; everything else is otherwise intact. The wood fibers are not torn.
Dents can be too shallow to allow successful repair. In such a case either the surrounding clear finish can be abraded to be more level or the dent made deeper to allow a reasonable repair.
These types of damages need to be clear-filled to keep the repair transparent. If any color touchup is needed, do it first. Determine if the clear coating is amber-colored or water-clear by lightly sanding in an inconspicuous area and checking the color of the resulting sanding powder.
For compatibility reasons, the repair process is easier when the same resin is used as the original coating on the furniture, so fill the damage using the original coating if it is known what it is. If not, then consider the resins of other coatings, including shellac, lacquer, acrylic, varnish and polyurethane.
Whenever you’re working on coatings that are extremely hard, highly durable and have a high-level chemical resistance, also consider one of the two-component resins with similar characteristics. Keep in mind that reactive and two-component fillers are harder to sand than the evaporative coatings, and there is little or no shrinkage after these types of fillers are coated. Also, harder fillers can be a problem when used on the softer coatings. Because so many different coatings are available, it’s important to test the resin and coating to get a working knowledge of which fillers work best, depending on the coating being repaired.
Drip the resin into the damage with an eyedropper, a good tool for certain filling. If the filler is an evaporative coating, overfill the damage to allow for shrinkage from the solvent’s evaporation. If the resins are reactive there should be minor shrinkage, so fill only slightly above the surface. (Remember that the more resin being applied, the more that has to be removed.) Check the fill for bubbles, using a pointed instrument or the heat from a hair dryer to release any that are found, and then allow the resin to harden.
Put masking tape around the filled area and use a sharp scraper, razor blade or sandpaper to level the filler. Start sanding or scraping on the masking tape to level the fill, rather than on the coating, to avoid over sanding the filler. Use sandpaper that will cut the filler without leaving deep scratch marks, and never use clogged sandpaper, which can leave scratches in the filler and surrounding coating. Level the filler down to the masking tape, and then remove the tape. If the tape sticks, use mineral spirits to remove it. Once the surface is cleaned, it’s ready to sand the fill level. When the filler has hardened, apply a few compatible clear coats over it to join the original coating, filler and new coating so that all final sanding is on the new coating.
The final coating can be sprayed, brushed or padded on the surface, depending on the type of finish being used. When done, any sheen adjustment can be done by rubbing out with nylon rubbing pads or polishing the coating with a rubbing compound. Repairs on “Torn” Wood For the deeper damages down into the wood, start by using a sharp razor to remove any loose pieces of coating or wood splinters surrounding the damage, cutting the damages into an oval or other profile shape, as the cleaner lines are helpful in hiding finished repairs.
Sand the walls and edges inside the damaged area. The finer the sandpaper, the better the light reflection after the full repair. Smooth out the damage with finer grits of sandpaper or the higher-micron grades of polishing pads. This fine sanding the filler smooth and level to the coating’s surface without leaving scratch marks in the filler or coating. (Remove any deeper scratch patterns with a finer sandpaper or polishing micron pad until the scratches are gone.)
In this type of transparent repair the goal is to not fill the deeper damages in the substrate the same way you would in other finishes–fill only to the top of the wood line that is below the surface finish. This is where the wood ends and the coating starts; the space between the base filler to the top of the surface will be for the coloring and a clear filling. Use any coating resin as the base filler, or use any conventional filler, including wood powder fillers, wood dough and putty, epoxy sticks or burn-in sticks. When the base-fill hardens, use the tip of a folded piece of sandpaper to sand it level and smooth.
Start by brushing the top of the base filler with a gold bronzing powder and a binder, such as shellac, to add some iridescence to the repair. When dry, add coloring to match the wood, following the wood’s pattern by inserting grain lines, distressing or any other distinguishing markings. Aniline or other dye stains are good for coloring because they’re transparent and allow light to pass through. Using pigmented colored powders, they must be thinned to avoid “painting” in the color. Transparency is necessary to allow some of the gold’s iridescence to show through.
Next, clear-fill any remaining space with either a single resin or two-component filler, depending on what type of coating is on the piece. As before, check to see if the clear coating on the piece is water-clear or amber with a sanding test in an inconspicuous spot. If color is needed in the clear filler, add dyes or reduced pigmented powders to maintain the transparency.
Again, remove any bubbles before allowing the repair to cure, and then level the repair with a scraper, razor or sandpaper. As before, put masking tape around the filler and sand or scrape on top of the tape, rather than the surrounding coating.
After the filler has hardened, a few clear coats over the filler will join the repair to the original coating. Follow the above sanding process going to the finest grits or polishing pads, then finish with a couple of clear coatings. If any sheen adjustment is needed, then sand, rub out or polish up to complete your repairs. This procedure is also used when clear coats succeed opaque colored base coats.